Four Seasons (Queensway)

World's Best Roast Duck Spot in London.

In the heart of London's bustling Malaysian district, Four Seasons has long held a cherished if occasionally contested, place in the city's rich culinary tapestry. Renowned for its succulent roast duck, I ventured into this modest yet storied establishment with both anticipation and trepidation, accompanied by tales of divine tastes and indifferent service. As you navigate past the queues—a testament to its enduring popularity—you're met with cramped interiors that evoke an inviting olfactory medley of spices and roasted meat. Despite the restaurant’s worn decor, the focus remains unyieldingly on what arrives on your plate.

My visit started on a promising note, with quick delivery of their famed dish: a luscious, glistening roast duck with skin not as crisply crackling as some aficionados might desire, yet generously tender beneath. Paired with delicately elastic shrimp fried rice and the odd inflection of overly garlicky vegetables, the meal spoke more often than not to comfort over contemporaneity. The service, reminiscent of an old-school Chinese eatery toggles between endearingly efficient and briskly blunt, seeming at once attentive to diners yet detached from their concerns. While other competitors may beckon nearby, Four Seasons still offers a nostalgic embrace of familiar, enduring flavors. Whether for those savory levels of umami or the rattiest sense of local tradition, this establishment deserving of a fortifying taste journey, especially for those patient enough to weather the wait and atmosphere amendment. — Clarissa Cuisinier