Katzenjammers

Stellar Service Shines at German Gem

Ah, Katzenjammers. Hidden away beneath the bustling streets near Borough Market, this underground tribute to Bavaria blends German charm with London liveliness—or at least mostly achieves this blend. On entering, you're hit with the atmosphere of a beer hall where steins come loaded with frothy ales and the food erases any dread of having gone away empty-stomached. Natalie, part waitress, part potential saint, seems to be such a fixture here—lending a helping hand to tired families or birthday revellers with equal aplomb. If lauded service were a dish, she'd serve it up exactly right every time, pairing her attentions perfectly with the platters of sizzling schnitzels and bratwursts. It's worth noting that despite some grumbles over food freshness and temperamental managers, the majority of experiences here leave one with the night brimming over into heartfelt choruses of prosit and more.

The symphony of sausages paired with lively bands honestly adds to a full spectrum evening, eclipsed in revelry and filling Dichter and Denker steins overflowing with blessed Paulaner. Nibbling on cheese pretzels amidst melody and malty air amid excited sports gatherings is so characteristically what the Bavarians would enjoy about London—utter ampersand events taking center stage in catacombs hidden from day's usual routine. Kentucky-grade mustard bottlenecks might plague your typical German bistro but here add an element to cross-border joshing which, on a good spirited night, is more amusing than vexing. Sure, operational blunders do mark more than a few negative tales—as any Greek theatre with beers and bureaucrats may attest too—but it's clear that for each swapped saddle of binder's meat there exists a dozen scent-filled good evenings. Overall, just descending into Katzenjammers allows hope that the cheerful toast will be what springs eternal in your step back onto street level; lighter in heart, if not quite in appetite. — Milo Tastemaker