The Devonshire

Culinary Excellence in a Cozy Setting

The Devonshire, tucked away charmingly on the quieter side of Balham, asserts itself as the trusty warm-hearted pub every locale needs yet struggles to maintain its polish in some corners. During my recent jaunt, there were flashes of brilliance, primarily served on a silver platter by the likes of Amelia and Qai, delightfully charming in their service. The Devonshire shines brightest when it brings food to the forefront – the standouts being scallops that bawled out for another encore, and roasts that flaunted crispy golden potatoes like a grandmother’s finest set of pearls. It's clear this establishment understands the alchemy required in turning Sunday roasts into an art form, making the beef glisten just right, while rooms warmed by real stove fires add to the old-world ambiance, though possibly best approached with less flammable attire.

Where the ovens roar delightfully, however, service softens to a shuffle at times-for what joy is a divine dish without the service rhythm to caress it gently to your table? Despite its lapses where an inattentive waiter or long barreled wait might egg tension in the room, you chuckle as glass meets garnish in unexpected fashion and sigh when heat turns oppressive, reminding me sharply of that silk scarf now retired due to singed edges. Nevertheless, with vibrant atmosphere expanses and sizable garden spaces ready to cradle large moods (and larger parties), The Devonshire retains a potion of affection, easily painting over less savory experiences with good company, nostalgia, and a pint well-pulled, anxiously awaiting the next round…if only to see the sterling staff work their fluid magic all over again. — Milo Tastemaker