The Lighterman

Canal Views, Ultimate Spot for Brunch Lovers

Wandering into The Lighterman at King's Cross is like being thrust upon Trafalgar Square’s fourth plinth—unexpectedly paramount yet bewildered by the audience's gaze. Perched beside Regent's Canal, it attempts to juxtapose its picturesque surrounds with a full-throttle cosmopolitan clatter that at times teeters on boisterous chaos. And therein lies the paradox: the setting is nothing short of charming, a sun-kissed utopia perfect for a canal-side libation, if you can brave the queue-jumping patrons more interested in self-restraint after-work narratives than societal decency.

Once ensconced inside, or preferably atop that splendid roof terrace squinting over Central St Martin’s, the food stretches its casual pub fare definition into impressive flirtations—with a wagyu burger worthy of many returns and satisfying mains like tuna (provided it's not a bad fish day). Yet, much like a Milan catwalk understaffed in stilts, service oscillates between endearing charm and dismaying oblivion; you'd think they could light the place with the beaming personalities of waitstaff like Fatma and Rahat alone, if only such illumination could speed food service over 50 minutes into less of a Stravinsky score. Never mind a wagging manager drenched in the irony of overcharging amidst gastrointestinal gloss-ups. But The Lighterman thrives every time the sun does, buoyed by its view and spirited effervescence—a testament that location fixes what neither inconsistent quality nor trailing attentiveness can. — Penelope Savory