The Sportsman

Experience Authentic Flavors with Impeccable Service

Tucked away in the heart of Cornwall, this unassuming gastronomic haven defies traditional classification, offering an intriguing fusion of Indian, Pakistani, Lebanese, and Middle Eastern cuisines. Despite the potential identity crisis, the charming blend works shockingly well, weaving a tapestry of flavors that transports you across continents with each bite. On a recent visit, my choice of the tasting menu drew me into a whirlwind culinary adventure; the deceptively small portions ensured that my palate was thoroughly entertained by vibrant spices and aromas, leaving me satiated but wistful for just one more morsel. While the place may not scream high-end opulence, it displays an understated elegance that complements its diverse menu, with ambient music steadily dropping an octave or two just as your conversation crescendos.

Service here is spontaneous yet precise, spearheaded by a manager whose keen attentiveness bordered on the telepathic—predicting desires for water right at their spark. Undeterred by limited staff experience, everyone rose to the occasion, embodying an earnestness that sometimes outstrips the need for seamless expertise. Although the eatery faces critique for its lack of firm identity, it more than makes up for it with sheer spirit and hospitality. This approach keeps both regulars eagerly anticipating their favorite chicken pathia while enticing globetrotting gastronomes seeking novel flavor combinations. A dinner here might not make headlines, but without fanfare, it's carefully etching a name as Cornwall's accidental cross-cultural culinary embassy, one delightful dish at a time. — Audrey Al Dente