The Waterfront

Stunning River Views and Exquisite Roasts

My recent encounter with The Waterfront, a genteel riverside retreat in Wandsworth, suggests that perhaps one can attempt to bottle sunlight? Nestled by the Thames, this venue boasts abundant charm, making it an idyllic choice for culinary libations with a view. Arriving with the anticipation usually reserved for a royal visit, I was quickly greeted by the refreshingly amiable service – quite un-London-like, dare I say. Maverick and Alex take the commendation for their finesse in ensuring patrons drift into delightful satisfaction, bordering on celestial. Their repertoire of fish dishes, particularly the locally revered Gurnard and haddock masterpieces, accompany the vistas with seamless fluidity, overshadowed slightly by certain dishes lacking finesse – or a complete ingredient list.

As my companions avidly devoured the Sunday roast—laden with meats tender enough to make even your grandmother proud—I observed the paradoxical aura that this place radiates: divine food served over the quagmire of sporadic service quality and the odd hygienic oversight. It’s as if the establishment bespeaks a hymn of enchanting disorder, an ironic tête-à-tête with itself on what constitutes good service. Such is the enigma of The Waterfront: where inconsistency cosily nuzzles with delightful repasts, and dilettante stabs in management eclipse passionate cooking. Perhaps not an experience worthy of knighthood, but certainly a jewel unrefined yet gleaming with promise on a shimmering stage set by the great river. — Penelope Savory