Ergon Deli

Delicious Greek Brunch, Worth the Wait

On my recent visit to a buzzy Greek brunch spot nestled in central London, I arrived with high hopes and an empty stomach, undeterred by the whispered stories of queues with the punctuality of Oxford Street tourists. Upon stepping inside, the restaurant unfolded like an Athenian scene, vibrant yet tightly packed, exuding a magnetic charm punctuated with the hum of curious conversations and the gentle clink of teacups colliding with saucers. I was lucky to score what seemed to be the best table, by a window graced with soft morning light cascading over tiled floors that many previous patrons have termed enthralling—a compliment perhaps unexpected for a floor.

The kitchen doles out dishes as grand and generous as its furniture is snug. The Peinirli, a cheese and egg flan wedged in a boat-shaped bread vessel, calls to mind more fervent culinary embassies—Greek aromas weaving dreams of sun-soaked harbors. But while the edible masterpieces do eventually land upon your table, so well-executed you can't help asking yourself if there really is magic involved, the wait invites solemn reflection or idle banter, abated by the striking though occasionally frazzled waitstaff. Their dedication tested at times, it's clear the weathering throng crushes their lungs; but whatever the burdens, they're charmingly diligent. Despite the waits, sipping on their aromatic forte, coffee dressed perhaps like a model on Milan streets, drags you deeper into this roving holiday within another confrontational London day. If patience and fortitude are among your leading virtues, then seize an hour, set aside all temporal expectations, bask in Mediterranean recollections, and claim your wonderful Hellenic escape. — Clarissa Cuisinier