Bancone Golden Square

Sumptuous Pasta, Vibrant Atmosphere Shines

Last Friday, I ventured into the heart of Soho to Bancone Golden Square, a pasta haven that feels like an artisan's workshop with a show kitchen. From the moment you step inside, you’re greeted not only by the intoxicating aroma of simmering sauces but also by a vibrantly busy atmosphere that walks the fine line between exhilarating and cacophonous. Although I've never been one to shy away from a bit of zest in city dining, the volume had me wondering if perhaps the decibel dial had been accidentally fused with the hob controls. That said, it wasn't anything a well-timed forkful of silk handkerchiefs draped in walnut butter and confit egg yolk couldn't soothe.

The menu is a tasteful testament to simplicity, featuring a trove of pasta-centric delights, and for those eager to travel the silk road of Italian cuisine, this has to be your first stop. Every dish arrives with the kind of fresh, handmade charm that’s reminiscent of la nonna’s kitchen—if she happened to possess classical culinary training and a penchant for contemporary flair. Despite minor service hiccups—starter plates lingering far too long and wine glasses vanishing prematurely—what Bancone lacks in seamless service, it abundantly compensates for with warm hospitality from staff like Kay and Sonom, who maneuver around busyness with smiles and dexterity. Bancone might use its busy theater as a sort of urban seasoning, and sure, there was an occasional swagger of Tik-Tok starlets slipping into the loos for a selfie or three, but when the cacio e pepe touches your soul, you learn to approve of their flourish. — Penelope Savory