Galvin La Chapelle

Elegant Cuisine, Exceptional Service, Timeless Charm

On a fine Tuesday evening, I graced the elegantly cavernous halls of Galvin La Chapelle—a glorious ex-chapel in the heart of London, draped with mesmerizing candlelight and echoes of its pious past. This Michelin-starred epicurean retreat effuses a stylish yet genuine warmth that flouts the conventional haughtiness some such establishments mistakenly cling to. Naturally, I opted for the Taste of Summer menu, a parade of culinary masterpieces that remarkably never chucked me into food comatose despite the indulgent courses.

To kick off, there was a transcendent mushroom starter—think forest fairies dancing on your palate—with the pretty glow of its Gewürztraminer sidekick singing soprano notes in perfect harmony with each bite. The maestros behind the counter seem to have woven whisked witchcraft into their raviolo and sea bream too—fabulously executed with silky precision. If this weren’t holy enough regarding location, our personal sommelier, flamboyantly charming, guided us around the wines like he moonlights on Burgundy’s tourist circuit. Over dessert, I may have muttered, “Oh dear amalfi”—their Umpteenth reworked lemon tart with darkly delightful liquorice—and sipped sinfully sweet wine, feeling rather like a merry sinner redeemed through taste. The service broke records for cohesiveness in accolades, human pillows holding trays and cloaking diners with only friendliness. Come payday or guilty pleasures next door, do pirouette over—even if just to try what the old church whispers as today’s Feast. — Milo Tastemaker