Il Bordello

Delicious Servings in Cozy Italian Harmony

Il Bordello, just a stone's throw from Wapping Overground Station, is the sort of Italian eatery that seems nervously poised between bustling trattoria charm and metropolitan chaos. On my recent visit, the air was heavy with a melange of garlic, bubbling tomato sauce, and the distilled essence of genuine hospitality — at least until you encountered the waitstaff’s hurried strides and occasionally abrupt demeanor. Treat yourself to their Campania-style pizza, a doughy marvel that sweeps through like a culinary mop cleaning up those service missteps. Grandeur and gustatory delight shine as sultry plates like veal alla Romana whisper sweet nothings to your palate, and yet, hushed dramas about table allocation for walk-ins unfurl around you.

On the night of my meal, nestled amid the familial din, I bravely jousted with the house's infamous "Margarita" cocktail, which bore an unfortunate surplus of lime juice, suggesting that balance, much like attentive service, is sometimes a fleeting dream here. Despite this wobble in equilibrium, Il Bordello strikes a harmonious note with its considerable portions and tantalizing brushstrokes of authenticity that evoke the flavors of Italy itself. Seek out the ravioli with mushrooms or venture towards the tiramisu; they are the very echoes of tradition layered on plates of impeccable taste. If only the dining was not swallowed up by the entropy of too few hands shepherding too many guests, this restaurant would waltz across the stage rather than quickstep, forgettable. Until then, reserve a place ideally under subdued lighting, away from spotlights that may illuminate rushed conversations rather than romance. — Clarissa Cuisinier