Madera at Treehouse London

Spectacular Views Meet Delectable Mexican Cuisine

Recent trips to the gastrodome du jour seem only to amplify a prevailing sentiment for grandeur and views, and maybe less so for subtlety. Perched fifteen floors up, this much-discussed venue in London delivers a panoramic eclipse of the skyline coupled with a plateful of bold flavors and startling culinary stunts—fire performances between courses, for goodness’ sake, like one needs that much drama while deciding between tortillas and taquitos. Let's discuss the particulars: their enthusiasm for vibrant interiors, striking enough to make the high street’s mundane charms bow their weary heads in defeat, is palpable, almost as palpable as the thump-thump soundtrack which about swallows heartfelt conversation whole. Presumably, detail-oriented conversation wasn't the order after all.

Set against such flashiness, the craftsmanship on the plates bears worthwhile mention; elote fries swoon-seasoned and 'spicy' Magaritas hot enough to scorch away your week's sins frame the scene. Yes, should the halos of 'vegan-friendly' come raising eyebrows, it's more than pyrotechnics, hush now—inclusive, modern fare receives the hallowed space it deserves. It's a show though, and timely service restraint doesn't feel part of the main act, yet servers like the marvelous Val and far-cited Madhab strut cleverly amidst this theatrics circus, distributing kindness generously around hilarity lapses. When you’ve been reduced to gesturing through track reverberations for slimline tonic variations, you might weigh whether such crescendo dine isn't secretly an eleventh spirit participant of the view itself. Would we return? Often, after a glass of wine yet seldom with our tongues tied to torch-bearing memories, one wins confidence—attached to the edges of grandiosity never a notch shy of opulence. — Penelope Savory