The New Inn

Charming Atmosphere with Delicious Sunday Roasts

As a critic who wanders the culinary world seeking not just food, but stories and atmospheres, my curiosity recently led me to The New Inn in Hayes. Upon arrival, the proximity to the train station is prime and its outward façade bleeds charm with an expansive beer garden like a tempting sun-trap for a lively summer afternoon. Within, the décor manages an impressive balance between modern flair and cosy homeliness—a winning combination that draws even the most skeptical eye in—even one so jaded by years of scouring for that something exceptional. "What," one might ask oneself upon entering, "heart and soul hide behind these worn mahogany panes?" As it turns out, quite a bit.

I nestled into a table braced for a ride amid a sea of delectable dishes and not necessarily the swiftest service. The "Ocean Basket" slid onto our table like an unintended metaphor for generosity—brimming and beautifully arranged with salt-and-pepper squid and king prawns singing against a backdrop of citrus mayo. For all those wading among attire missteps--"work-wear privilege", take on notice: its kitchen is not just the beating heart of this establishment, it’s a gracious one indeed, with culinary acrobatics demanding patience some diners venturing trouble home. Against what whispers from ill-fated Sunday roasts may have forewarned, my experience was far from lackluster. True, the ghosts of awkward service refusals glance through every doorway and corner table, brushing against patches of laughter like translucent echoes but alas where relational hurdles arise—they boast repair in deliciousness, upright by staff's own magnetic repartee, particularly from the charming barman Michael. Despite tales checkered with confusion, there's an undeniable hush of promise at the helm begging revisitation. — Milo Tastemaker