Through the woods

Exceptional Dining with Cozy Atmosphere

Nestled snugly amongst the leafy quarters of Crouch End is Chris Slaughter's restaurant, a clandestine culinary delight christened "Through the Woods." It's easy to mistake this charming enclave for a mythic woodland glade, where gastrophiles venture for both sustenance and smug enlightenment. Once inside, you're bound to be smitten not just by the air perfumed with wild garlic and sizzling welcomes, but also by an atmosphere richer than half an hour with Netflix's best dramas. You get immediately held captive by the parade of familiar yet intriguingly metamorphosed seasonal amusements, each plate presented with nearly witchcraft precision.

This place isn't just a neighborhood jaunt but a stage set for its curious, insatiable legions of food pilgrims, which makes snagging a spot akin to finding a unicorn with a penchant for haute cuisine. Our particular pilgrimage ended with mop-worthy plates that weren't simply meals but vivid stories told through artichoke whispers and beef elegies - all perfectly punctuated by playful wines in generous pours. The true spell here, though, is cast by Steve and Chris—the Georges Méliès-like curators of both quiet intimacy and chatter-inducing feasts. Through the Woods achieves what many dining establishments only dream about: striking a balance between the comfortably homely and the startlingly inspired. It’s the kind of place that demands a squeeze back past waitlists and whimsical seasonality—whenever they permit—and warrants a hearty nod to whoever dares say “supper club” again in my hearing. — Penelope Savory