Expert sommelier picks: London’s best wine lists

Alexandre Dumas once said that wine is the intellectual part of the meal, and I couldn’t agree more. There’s something captivating about the craftsmanship that goes into a well-curated wine list, a testament to the skill of a talented head sommelier or someone driven by true passion. Explore my personal selection of the best wine restaurants in London where those cellar collections are expertly assembled and genuinely cherished. You’ll find not just a drink to pair with your food but an immersive viticulture journey on its own.

1. Cabotte

I went to Cabotte with high expectations, knowing it’s the creation of two Master Sommeliers. Yet, I didn’t expect to find myself pausing mid-meal for so many “wows.” Every detail here felt thoughtfully placed, from the stylish, slightly formal yet perfectly balanced interior and the eye-widening wine list featuring over a thousand labels to outstanding citrusy orange cake with almonds and candied pistachios that left me speechless, demanding a moment of silent appreciation.

I could have spent hours poring over the pages of their viticulture encyclopedia, but instead, I leaned on the experts to recommend the ideal pairing for my guinea fowl with smoked beetroot. Cabotte pays great homage to the Burgundy terroir, and I was offered a glass of fruity and earthy elixir from the region that impeccably complemented the gamey flavors. Otherwise, the selection ranges from the approachable Les Deux Terres, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, 2017, to the coveted Meursault 1er Cru, Domaine Coche-Dury, 2018.

Average bill — £20 - £39

2. La Dame de Pic

I admire Anne-Sophie Pic, an extraordinary woman and chef who transforms every restaurant she helms into a gastronomic paradise. At La Dame de Pic, nestled within the Four Seasons near Tower Bridge, she delivers sublime Parisian-style fine dining, paired with an impressively extensive wine list that showcases a special nod to the Rhône Valley — home to Maison Pic.

Settling into one of the orange leather banquettes, surrounded by imposing mirror-clad columns and intricate plasterwork, I didn’t need to spend much time choosing from the menu — the degustation sets were the way to go. A playful pasta dish inspired by berlingot candies and the signature white millefeuille — like a vanilla cloud on the plate — were absolute highlights. While wine pairings are available, I opted to engage with the sommelier, who expertly guided me through the collection's narratives and was attentive throughout. I was more than delighted to finally try Viognier from the enigmatic Château-Grillet.

Average bill — £98 - £200

3. Noble Rot

Noble Rot magazine is one of my favorite gastronomy reads, both for its sharp content and bold, eye-catching illustrations, which also grace the walls of their restaurant on Lamb's Conduit Street. With their stellar reputation as visionaries in the world of wine, it’s no surprise that their venues are home to celebrated, award-winning collections.

There’s a fantastically well-priced lunch menu, but I came for a leisurely dinner, making up my own set from modern European dishes. Comté tart was an elegant, velvety delight with a flaky crust, while roast John Dory paired delicately with earthy chanterelles. Yet I would say the real star here is the wine. Their by-the-glass selection is among London’s finest, ideal for curious tasters. I sampled several, and my personal highlight was the chocolatey blend from Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc. As for bottles, the list spans dozens of pages, brimming with rare treasures, particularly from the Old World. 

Average bill — £22 - £61

4. Chez Bruce

This charming, simply decorated, old-school restaurant, offers some of the most attentive service you could hope to find. I’ve visited many times, and the consistent professionalism has truly won me over. Unapologetically French, the menu speaks directly to my culinary heart, whether it’s magnificent chateaubriand with classic béarnaise sauce, decadent crème brûlée, or an exceptional cheese board — which is definitely not to be missed, as they approach it with the same dedication as their wine list.

You might expect a collection heavily focused on French gems (which are, of course, generously represented), but it was refreshing to discover unique choices like Sémillon and Viognier from South Africa, Naoussa from Greece, and intriguing Trousseau from Argentina. The by-the-glass offerings are equally eclectic, with each choice made for a specific purpose — something the well-informed staff is always keen to share.

Average bill — £32 - £45

5. St. John Bread & Wine

St. John is celebrated as a pioneering force in London's dining scene, led by visionaries who championed nose-to-tail cooking long before it became mainstream. I love their Bread & Wine venue on Commercial Street, with its instantly recognizable white-walled design, bistro-style tables that show a touch of wear, and chalkboard menus that always offer something fresh. But I must admit, the main reason I come here is for that exceptional Proustian moment with their unrivaled madeleines. But it’s not just that.

Boasting their own vineyard in France and a profound appreciation for wine, the restaurant owners promise outstanding pours. With the guidance of the knowledgeable staff, I usually discover intriguing labels from their exclusively French selection, and I can wholeheartedly recommend St. John’s own wines. As for the menu, I’d suggest bringing good company to share that terrific pheasant, trotter, and bacon pie.

Average bill — £25 - £100