LAO DAO（劳道)

Authentic Cuisine in a Historic Setting

Nestled unassumingly on Walworth Road, this Xinjiang gem unabashedly showcases a tapestry of rare and authentic flavors, pulsating vibrancy reminiscent of its Uyghur origins. The entrance offers a fleeting whiff of nostalgia, thanks to the preserved architectural elegance of its predecessor, Kennedy’s butchers—a backdrop that provides not only cultural depth but also envelops diners in an inviting warmth that's generationally rooted. Greeted with effortless charm by the staff, who it must be noted are often cited for their earnestness and goodwill, one is immediately put at ease—a sentiment echoed, somewhat poignantly, by previous patrons who have experienced their satirical hospitality speedier than expected. Such a virtue is not merely reserved for service but echoes through the visually arresting plates delivered; like painterly displays set against rustic backdrops, their lamb skewers are seemingly both appetizer and aromatic muse.

Delving into its menu, there’s sheer delight in finding hand-pulled noodles that wrangle familiar senses into discovering new dimensions; flavors comport themselves boldly yet without brusqueness. However, as nods towards some amateurish ambitions do emerge—we observe moments where salt miscalibrations and rushed preparations unzip slightly—there prevails a sheer merit of concord; spontaneity meeting structure’s intimate juncture. To recline post-meal with a pot of steaming tea is a denouement resembling nothing less than an imperial culinary sequence; a celebration enjoyed best whipped between servings of exquisite dumplings or grilled lamb chops aged pristinely to their georgic edges. One departs with lingering thoughts of spice orchestration and the thrill of origination the next bite might yield, leaving the critic yearning to reweave this tasty tapestry again and soon. — Nigel Gourmet