Laurel's On The Roof

Charming Rooftop Oasis with Swanky Vibe

Walking into this gloriously contradictory restaurant is like stepping onto the set of a film with a genre undecided—they’re gunning for chic sophistication but leaning too far towards absurdist comedy. Ascend to the swanky rooftop bar, where a panorama of city lights stretches before you, enhanced by a genuinely pleasant atmosphere and staff who are probably as forgiving as Saint Peter on his best day. Happily, the topside of beef stands as the centerpiece, almost worth the skyscraping price tag, cooked to mouthwatering tenderness. It sings alongside a choir of flavorful waves from ostensibly well-crafted gravy—but all thanksgiving quickly muffles as your fork seeks the classic roast potatoes sadly stripped of that lip-tingling taste. Pop out the homemade Yorkshire pudding, an amusing twist in its humble imperfection much akin to pancake gone awry; delightful but confusing amid bold expectations of culinary prestige.

Then brace for the main event—service with the nimbleness of a ninja on a hamster wheel running low on oomph, proficient perhaps in elevating the art of apathy. Sparred only briefly before being ushered off with a sense closer to eviction than hospitality, diners may be caught unaware by staff whose devotion to maintaining both tables and tips is nothing short of ingenious satire. Desserts hint toward performance art—a coconut panna cotta almost evokes vintage plastic, exquisitely executed with one too many gram of gelatin—truly avant-garde, spun into fascinations best left unclaimed by the faint-hearted gourmand. Dining here tends to be less about sustenance and more about gaining a lifecycle of colorful anecdotes; still, this whimsical visit might satisfy anyone eager for a peculiarly-scaled something where dissonant notes of charm dress bruised possibilities hidden within each agonizingly memorable bite. — Clarissa Cuisinier