Shinwari

On a recent saunter over to Shinwari, I’ll be honest, my expectations see-sawed between tentative optimism and the cautious wariness from reading polarizing reviews. This joint in East London, often lauded for its authentic Afghan cuisine, does have a bit of a mixed reputation. Stepping inside, what greets you is quite a cozy ambiance with an industrious swarm of friendly staff. The place skips the finesse of high-end dining for something more grounded—a choice that fits its vibe well. Opting for the floor seating, which is simply delightful, sans the slightly sticky carpets, added chakater (je ne sais quoi in Pashto!).

For culinary adventurers, their Chapli Kebab indeed struck gold, manifesting a sublime medley of spices, beautifully crisped on the outside. Sadly, while the kebabs soared to acclaim worthy of a Camembert Companion, the much-talked-about Kabuli Pulao stumbled rather bleakly. It had some balance between texture and fragrance but veered close to blandness. Yet, it’s not all bad news; the lavish dish sizes served up with exceptional value could save the most cavernous of appetites. Overall, a bittersweet episode, really—where occasional hits do battle with perplexing miss-outs—but then again, what is life without a bit of flavor roulette? Worth another whirl if an addiction to good greed for glorious kebabs grips you. — Milo Tastemaker