The English Restaurant

£11 - £25 / British

50-52 Brushfield Street, London

Opening hours

9AM-11PM

Sunday 9AM-7PM
Monday 9AM-11PM
Tuesday 9AM-11PM
Wednesday 9AM-11PM
Thursday 9AM-11PM
Friday 9AM-11PM
Saturday 9AM-11PM

London’s Finest Breakfast and Bold Flavors

There's a certain British charm in establishments striving to conquer the culinary landscape with gusto and humble grace, all wrapped up in the creaky embrace of aged wood and the smell of espresso. Take for instance the curious place we're dissecting today—part pub, part cafe, but entirely devoted to having a rollicking go at redefining what it means to enjoy a meal beneath sputtering bulbs and fading frames of regal past. For someone who've sampled fare on both ends of the whimsical spectrum, from rediscovered classics to modern offshore escapades, there's plenty here that’s glimmering with that oft-elusive attribute: potential. A ‘full English’ the morning set-piece, does exactly as it says on the tin; all fry-up goodness and affable service to keep your spirits higher than a cockney spiv.

And then there are culinary throwbacks that simply flirt with new-age alchemy—a pickled herring daringly perched on airy latkes, ringing in nostalgia yet opening a salient debate amongst the palate-conscious. Take heed, burger conformists; your brunch eggs may flow like rivers destined for hymnal praise, but it's the innovative streak this kitchen shows in its Knoxian wonders that holds the spotlight. Diners should remember though, while the cost is hardly scandalous amidst concrete posh of London proper, not every dish sparkles. Dare I suggest they're two chefs shy of a complete cabinet when tasked with a simple scrambled vegetable situation? Alas, not everything dabbled here strides to artistic climax—the toast might just yield more vapour than vivacity. Nonetheless, with such promising entrees and a liquid carte-du-jour swathed in rarebit comfort, there's still spark enough for another visit, or perhaps two if missteps find their bearings. — Penelope Savory