I've consumed more Yorkshire puddings than I care to admit in my twenty-odd years as a restaurant critic, but let me tell you about the places awarded with our Quintessentially British dining accolade that have consistently delighted both my palate and spirit.
You'll find me at Gillray's Steakhouse & Bar far more often than my cardiologist would approve of. Nestled in the London Marriott County Hall, it's where I've perfected the art of pretending to admire the Thames view while actually watching my 35-day aged Aberdeen Angus steak being delivered. The Yorkshire puddings here are so magnificently risen they practically require planning permission. I once counted their gin collection but lost track after my 7th "sample" — though I'm quite certain they have over 100 varieties. The walls, adorned with Gillray's satirical prints, have witnessed me trying to explain to numerous dining companions why I'm photographing my food again.
Average bill — £70-£90 per person
Rules, our capital's oldest restaurant, is where I go when I need to remind myself that some things actually improve with age (unlike my attempts at food photography). Founded in 1798, it's older than most countries' constitutions and twice as entertaining. Their roast grouse with bread sauce is so good it once made me forget my table manners entirely — a story my editor still brings up at Christmas parties. The upstairs bar's Gibson martini is dangerous perfection; after two, I once tried to purchase one of the vintage portraits off the wall. Thankfully, the ever-diplomatic staff pretended not to notice.
Average bill — £85-£100 per person
Wiltons is where I learned that oysters aren't just food — they're a lifestyle choice. Since 1742, they've been serving seafood to the sort of people who probably own islands, but they've always treated this scruffy critic like minor royalty. The Dover sole here is so perfectly prepared, I once wrote an entire column in the form of a love letter to it (my editor vetoed it, sadly). The green leather banquettes have witnessed more of my afternoon naps than I care to admit — they're dangerously comfortable after three courses and a glass of their excellent Chablis.
Average bill — £90-£120 per person
The Goring Dining Room is where I go when I want to feel posh enough to hypothetically bump into a royal. Here, I've spent embarrassingly long moments staring at my reflection in Swarovski chandeliers, pretending to be contemplating the wine list. Their Eggs Drumkilbo, allegedly the Queen Mother's favourite, has become my standard excuse for breakfast meetings. "Sorry, can't do 9am unless it's at The Goring" is now my professional motto. The Beef Wellington for two has, on more than one occasion, been Beef Wellington for one — don't judge me.
Average bill — £95-£115 per person
The Harwood Arms taught me that a Michelin star doesn't mean you have to eat with your pinky up. Their venison Scotch eggs are simply irresistible — I've yet to visit without ordering them, and I've never regretted it once. The venison itself, sourced from their own estate, has a depth of flavour that puts ordinary pub fare to shame. Despite being London's poshest pub, it's still the kind of place where you can accidentally snort when laughing, and nobody bats an eyelid. The warm wooden floors and well-worn leather chairs seem to encourage leisurely dining, and I've spent many Sunday afternoons here, promising myself I'll only have a "light lunch" and eventually surrendering to their legendary roast.
Average bill — £55-£75 per person
The Clove Club in Shoreditch is where I go to feel young and hip, despite being neither. Their haggis buns make me wish I was Scottish, and buttermilk fried chicken with pine salt has ruined all other fried chicken for me — a sacrifice I'm willing to bear. The elegant blue-tiled dining room has witnessed countless earnest discussions about food sustainability from the next generation of gourmands, while I quietly reminisce about the old Brick Lane curry houses. Signature flamed Cornish cod deserves every bit of praise it gets — though I'm perfectly content leaving the fishing to the professionals and enjoying the fruits of their labour from the comfort of my table.
Average bill — £140-£160 per person
